Members agree upon three-stage model at annual meeting.

Wallhausen/Castell, Germany…..A breakthrough was achieved at the VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter, the Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates) annual meeting held this summer in Castell/Franken. After nearly a decade of preparation, members passed a resolution on wine classification for Germany, thus reaching a milestone in the association’s history …and a milestone for wine lovers: at long last they can enjoy “grand cru” wines from Germany. The rest of the press release here.

At a press conference following the meeting, assocation president Michael Prinz zu Salm-Salm expressed his satisfaction with the outcome: “After ten years of carefully laying the groundwork and intensely comparing notes on the various classification models proposed in the different regions, the resolution at hand truly represents a historical breakthrough. It enables Germany’s top-quality wine producers to reposition their products on the international wine market, and to finally do so on an equal footing with the “grand crus” of other wine-growing countries. The resolution was also important because Germany is unique among the wine-growing countries of the world in that the entire area permitted for viticulture potentially qualifies as being suitable for the production of Qualitätswein. Furthermore, the difference between collective and individual sites is confusing. Our proposal offers consumers greater clarity in the future. When they see a wine bearing the VDP capsule and the name of a vineyard site (wines from classified sites), they can be certain that it is a premium wine that clearly reflects its origin. The designations “Erstes Gewächs” (first growth), “Grosses Gewächs” (great growth) or “Erste Lage” (top site) will be used to identify super-premium wines (“grand cru” wines).”

For the most part, members were in agreement about the additional measures that were passed.

• With regard to the implementation of new oenological procedures, such as concentration, the members voted to abstain from its general use, although methods of concentration probably will be legalized in the future.
  The new techniques are in an experimental stage. Members who are interested in trying out such procedures will do so only after informing the VDP national association, and agree to carry out their trials under the supervision of a working committee to be named by the national association.
• As to the question of cultivating genetically altered grape varieties, the delegates unanimously support a ten-year moratorium. For this purpose, the VDP has joined the French-European initiative “Terre et Vins du Monde”.
• The annual meeting also provided an opportunity for Germany’s “wine elite” to take a critical look at the association’s name and logo. The members agreed that in public, they will go by the shorter name “VDP. Die Prädikatsweingüter”. (VDP. The Prädikat Wine Estates.) in the future. They also decided to modernize their VDP eagle logo by softening the martial look of the eagle. Henceforth the eagle will sport rounded wings, bear a smaller cluster of grapes and look less aggressive overall.

The three-stage classification model.

All wines of VDP members are still subject to the stringent quality criteria that the VDP adopted in 1990.

At the base of the “quality pyramid” are the so-called “Gutsweine” and “Ortsweine”, i.e. an estate’s “house” wines, labeled simply with a proprietary name and/or broad appellation of origin, such as the name of a village or region.

The second level of the “quality pyramid” consists of “klassifizierten Lagenweine”, or wines from classified sites, based on two underlying concepts: 1) After a three-year grace period, at the latest, VDP members will restrict their use of vineyard designations to those sites that impart a distinctive character to their respective wines. Every VDP regional association is obligated, under private law, to determine which sites merit classification status ­ i.e. which sites yield wines that clearly express site-specific traits. Then, and only then, will VDP members market their wines with a vineyard designation on the label; 2) said wines must also meet additional quality criteria regarding maximum yield (65 hl/ha), grape variety (traditional varietals), ripeness level of the grapes at harvest (completely ripe), selective harvesting, and supplementary sensory testing.

The first and highest level of the “quality pyramid” comprises the “grand cru” wines of Germany. In the Rheingau, these are identified as “Erstes Gewächs”; in other regions, VDP members will use the designations “Grosses Gewächs” or “Erste Lage” to denote these super-premium wines. This very exclusive category, which will seldom exceed 5% of an estate’s overall production, is subject to even stricter production criteria. Maximum yield is restricted to 50 hl/ha, the choice of grape variety is narrower, and various viticultural measures are controlled, starting with pruning. A fully ripened crop is a matter of course, as is selective harvesting, by hand. A VDP sensorical exam is mandatory, in addition to that required by law for wines designated as “Qualitätswein”. In terms of packaging, these wines can be recognized by a combination of the “VDP eagle” with the name of a specific vineyard site.

All levels of the “quality pyramid” are subject to the general standards prescribed by the VDP national association. The regional associations, however, can stipulate stricter conditions.

In conclusion, Prince Salm summarized:
“In recent years, as an association of top-quality producers, we have had to accept the fact that we were not able to effect the changes we deemed necessary to improve the wine law. As such, we have gone our own way and voluntarily opted to: 1) abstain from using collective vineyard site names; 2) limit yields; 3) lay the groundwork, i.e. set minimum standards, for the “grand cru” wines of Germany, now valid nationwide. Our association of top-quality wine estates will continue to voluntarily practice quality-oriented measures in the vineyard and in the cellar to produce wines of distinguished character ­ based on the precept of “quality over quantity”.”

Note: Photos from the annual meeting are available from VDP headquarters.

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