Principal Grape Varietals

About German Wine Grapes
Part I Part II

Germany is the thirteenth largest producer of wine grapes in the world, with 103,391 hectares (about 255,000 acres) under cultivation as of 2022. Overall, grape cultivation has declined slightly since 1995, by 2,243 hectares. But there has been a major shift to increasing cultivation of red grapes with global warming. Cultivation of white grapes is at 70,752 hectares as of 2022, about two-thirds (68.4%) of the total and down by 14,720 hectares since 1995. At the same time time, cultivation of red grapes now represents one-third of the production, 32,639 hectares as of 2022 (31.6%), up 12,477 hectares since 1995. Looking back to 1970, when white grapes were 85% of total cultivation in Germany and reds only 15%, it is clear how dramatic a shift has occurred. Some of the traditional white grapes, like Riesling, remain as strong as ever, and some have even grown, but many have declined as reds have increased and new varietals have appeared.

The White Grapes

Riesling 

The Queen of German wine grapes, undoubtedly the most important of the grape varieties grown in Germany at about a quarter of overall cultivation, and the leading grape in nine of Germany’s thirteen wine regions. Produces wines ranging from bone dry to unctuous and formidably concentrated. One of the great “noble grapes,” many would call Riesling the world’s premier white wine grape, and the German expression of it the world’s standard. Cultivation of Riesling has largely held steady over the past few decades, with its share of German grape production at 24,318 hectares, 23.6% of the total, and up 1,271 hectares since 1995. Indeed. looking back to 1970, Riesling had the same 23.6% share it has today.

Silvaner:

Dry neutral wines are produced from this low yielding grape. One of the varieties that benefits most from a drier style of wine making. Silvaner was formerly planted much more widely in Germany than today, when it is concentrated in the regions of Franken where it remains the leading grape, and also in Rheinhessen. Cultivation is at 4,419 hectares as of 2022, 4.3% of the total, and down sharply by 3,127 hectares since 1995, by nearly half. Silvaner remains the classic accompaniment to an asparagus-based meal.

Müller-Thurgau:

Also known as Rivaner. A wine whose heritage has long been thought to be Riesling and Silvaner but is now believed to be a cross between two Riesling clones. This is a hardy and high-yielding grape that ripens early, but the resulting wine is relatively weak and sweet. Planting of Müller-Thurgau in Germany used to be much more widespread than now, and indeed at one time it was even more widely planted than Riesling, but critics have long favored its replacement with better varietals, saying that the sooner it disappears the better. As Hugh Johnson put it: “Should be banned from all the top vineyards.” Heeding this advice, growers have reduced planting of this grape sharply, though it is still second only to Riesling among white grapes cultivated, has a substantial presence in most regions and remains the leading grape in one region, Saale-Unstrut. There are currently 10,970 hectares of this grape planted as of 2022, 10.6% of the total, but down by 12,519 hectares, more than half, since 1995, the largest decline in absolute terms of any grape in Germany. Indeed, the decline in cultivation of Müller-Thurgau almost exactly matches the increase in plantings of red grapes over the same time.

Grauburgunder/Ruländer

Also better known as the Pinot Gris or Tokay d’Alsace in France, one of the Pinot grapes brought to Germany by monks from Burgundy (thus the Burgunder part of its name). Robust and flavorful, produces heavyweight wines particularly from the south of Germany, and now has a significant role in more than half of Germany’s wine regions. Reflecting its increasing popularity, cultivation is at 8,094 hectares as of 2022, 7.8% of the total, and up by more than half, 5,559 hectares, since 1995. A lovely wine, with distinctive bouquet and good with food pairings.

Scheurebe:

Perhaps the most successful Riesling and Silvaner cross. A “love it or leave it” varietal, but it is losing popularity. Plantings have declined by more than half, with total cultivation now at 1,483 hectares as of 2022, 1.4% of the total, down by 2,123 hectares since 1995. Good acidity, a distinctive bouquet and blackcurrant flavors. Scheurebe is mainly grown in Rheinhessen, with smaller amounts in the Pfalz, Franken and Nahe

Weissburgunder:

Better known as the Pinot Blanc of France. Weissburgunder, like the other Pinots in Germany, has been expanding in popularity, with cultivation at 6,181 hectares in 2022, 6% of the total, and up by two-thirds, 4,359 hectares, since 1995. It is present significantly in most regions and particularly notable in the eastern ones. A fresh, dry wine, enjoyable in summer and especially with fish and cold foods.

Gewürztraminer:

Also known simply as Traminer in Germany. Spicy, aromatic and distinctive. You either love or hate this grape. Non-lovers should be encouraged to buy a Gewürz from the Pfalz or Baden as they are not quite so “distinctive’ as the classic wines of Alsace. Cultivation is holding its own in Germany though it remains one of the smaller varietals, at 1,120 hectares as of 2022, 1.1% of the total and up by 253 hectares since 1995. Mainly planted in Baden and the Pfalz, but even so not one of the top grapes there.

Kerner:

A modern precocious (early ripening) variety often used to improve the chances of producing wines with a higher must weight, but with the shift in interest to drier whites, it has been losing popularity. An odd cross between Trollinger and Riesling, a red and a white grape, but lacking the complexity and character of Riesling. Cultivation is at 2,023 hectares as of 2022, 2% of the total and a dramatic decline of 5,528 hectares from 1995. Mainly now grown in Rheinhessen and the Pfalz.

Chardonnay

This internationally famed grape, coming from France, has only been allowed to be cultivated in Germany since 1991, but has since made significant advances. It now is planted on 2,731 hectares, 2.6% of the total, and up by 2,460 hectares since 1995. Found particularly in Rheinhessen and the Pfalz. Produces wines with a distinct aromatic bouquet.

Sauvignon Blanc

Another internationally famed grape that has been making inroads in Germany in recent decades. It now is planted on 1923 hectares, 1.9% of total cultivation, all of which as occurred since 1995 when it had no notable presence. Found particularly in the Pfalz.

Gutedel

An ancient variety, early ripening, with a notable presence in Baden in the Markgräflerland, also found in France as Chasselas and as Fendant in Switzerland. Total cultivation in Germany is at 1,065 hectares as of 2022, 1% of the total and down by 251 hectares since 1995. A light, pleasant wine, with low acidity and rather neutral.

Muskateller

Another ancient variety, making a light, elegant wine, with some sweetness but not overly so. Only grown on 579 hectares as of 2022, 0.6% of the total, but rising in interest, with an increase in cultivation of 499 hectares since 1995. Notable in Baden in the Kaiserstuhl area.

Elbling

Yet another ancient variety, often blended in sparkling wine (sekt in Germany). Declining by more than half in plantings, it is now at 472 hectares as of 2022, 0.5% of the total and down by 666 hectares since 1995. It retains a presence in the Mosel, near to Luxembourg where it is also popular, and produces light, piquant wines.
The Red Grapes

Spätburgunder:

Also better known as the Pinot Noir of France, this is Germany’s most popular red grape, with significantly increasing cultivation and much greater attention from importers, growers and the public. Indeed, in two regions of Germany, the Ahr and Baden, it is the leading grape, and it has a considerable presence in almost all of the regions now. Produces light pale wines, and the finest wines are fermented with the skins on the grapes and long maturation in small barriques as in Burgundy. This grape constitutes about a third of all the cultivation of reds in Germany, at 11,512 hectares as of 2022, 11.1% of the total cultivation and up by 4,313 hectares since 1995. Widely considered the finest red grape in Germany, producing velvety and full-bodied wines.

Dornfelder:

The “new” red wine of Germany, with sharp growth in cultivation in recent decades, the largest in absolute terms of any red grape in Germany. Has an extraordinary depth of color yet a fresh and fruity, almost Beaujolais-like yeast. Deep red, full-bodied wines with a fairly tannic acidity. Fashionable, but due to its increasing plantings easier to find now than in past years. Now the leading red grape in Rheinhessen, the Pfalz, Nahe, and Saale-Unstrut, with a total of 6,812 hectares planted, 6.6% of the total cultivation in Germany and up by 4,929 hectares since 1995.

Trollinger:

A specialty of Württemberg and still the leading red grape there. Late ripening can be problematic in cool years. 1,940 hectares are planted as of 2022, 1.9% of the total and down by 586 hectares since 1995. Yields light, fragrant wines, with pronounced acidity.

Lemberger:

Also known as Blaufrankisch in Austria. Another red variety found predominantly in Württemberg, and gaining in popularity along with the overall growth of reds in Germany. 1,929 hectares are cultivated as of 2022, 1.9% of the total, and up by about half, 1010 hectares, since 1995. Produces fresh, racy, full-bodied wines.

Portugieser:

Actually has nothing to do with Portugal, as it probably originates from the Danube Valley in Austria. This is an old and prolific variety, producing light wine that is easy drinking. 2,295 hectares are cultivated in Germany as of 2022, 2.2% of the total, but this is down by nearly half, 2,145 hectares, since 1995, despite the overall growth of reds in Germany. Significant quantities are still produced in Rheinhessen and the Pfalz.

Schwarzriesling

Also known as Müllerrebe, and better known as Pinot Meunier in France. Another misnamed red wine grape which has nothing to do with Riesling despite the “black Riesling” name, it is actually a mutation of Pinot Noir, ripening earlier but producing wines of less complexity. It is sometimes also claimed to be a Pinot Noir parent though this is disputed. In Germany it is mainly cultivated in Württemberg. 1,698 hectares were planted in 2022, 1.6% of the total, and down by 418 hectares since 1995.

Merlot

An internationally famed red grape that has recently come to be cultivated in Germany. 886 hectares are planted as of 2022, 0.9% of the total, and all since 1995 when this grape had no notable presence in Germany.

St. Laurent

Also well known from the Danube Valley in Austria, and recently planted in Germany. It is similar to Pinot Noir but with unknown origins, producing powerful and deep-colored wine with sour cherry flavors. 576 hectares are planted as of 2022, 0.6% of the total and almost all of this, 508 hectares, since 1995.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Another internationally famed red grape, now cultivated to a small extent in Germany. 483 hectares are planted as of 2022, 0.5% of the total and all of this since 1995.

Frühburgunder

An old Pinot clone from the Ahr, which ripens a couple of weeks before the predominant Spätburgunder there (früh means early in German), producing elegant and gentle wines. Still a small varietal, with only 222 hectares planted as of 2022, 0.2% of the total, but it has grown by 174 hectares since 1995. The Ahr remains the only region where this grape is significantly produced.
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